Everyone knows that winter cutting is to increase tree vigor, and summer cutting is to weaken tree vigor. Winter shears reduce growth points. There will be fewer people to eat on the tree next year, and tree vigor will flourish. In addition, winter shears have the task of shaping and balancing branches and tree vigor.
Shearing weak trees and moderate trees in winter reduces growth points, thinning strips and flowers can also reduce the amount of branches and buds in winter and the amount of water evaporation. Because although the branches and buds on the trees stop growing in winter, the underground water is slowly transported to the trees as usual, so the branches and buds on the trees will not lose water and dry up. Careful people will find that the cut branches of the tree will lose water and dry up after 20 days, but the branches of the tree do not lose water is the proof of ***. Therefore, weak trees and moderate trees can be cut immediately in winter after falling leaves to reduce the consumption of nutrients by evaporation of water and fertilizer, which will help the tree to return to prosperity next year.
For trees with full stalks, few flower buds, few branchlets or no flower buds, because next year flowering consumes less reserve, or there are no flowers on the tree, no reserve nutrients will be consumed. After germination next year, the reserve nutrients in the tree will be long, so the slivers will grow. long. Knowing the above principles, you can cut the prosperous tree with fewer flowers and more large branches in winter with leaves. You are not afraid of killing the wrong large branches. Even if it will reduce the nutrient reserve, because the tree has fewer flower buds, it will consume less nutrients for flowering next year and has no effect. On the contrary, the reserve of nutrients is less, and the strips will stop growing early next year.
It is also possible to prune the prosperous trees when they germinate next year. First, it will increase the evaporation of water, fertilizer and nutrients from the shoots in winter, which is a different trend. The second is winter cutting before and after germination, which can destroy the dominance of the shoots, increase the germination rate, and facilitate the emergence of twigs. If there are more growth points, it will also be divided. And to go to the big branches before and after budding will take away a lot of nutrients from the tree body, which is also a kind of weakening to the tree body.
Regardless of whether you cut the leaves in the winter or before and after germination, the time avoids the severe cold weather, and the cut will not be affected by freezing and rot. Because the branches of fruit trees contain a lot of water, cutting the tree within three or nine days will cause freezing damage due to the humidity of the cut mouth, causing the cut mouth healing tissue to freeze to death and infect rot bacteria. But with leaf winter cutting and winter cutting before and after germination, the water in the cutting mouth has evaporated by thirty or nine days, and the cutting mouth has dried up, so freezing damage will not occur. Of course, for moderate trees and weak trees, try not to cut trees for three or nine days. If you plant a lot of fruit trees, you must cut the tree within thirty or nine days if you can't finish it before sprouting. After cutting, apply a healing agent to the cut and saw cuts immediately, and freezing damage will not occur.
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